The following great website, which is sponsored by the LA Conservancy, is interactive, and provides photo, and text information on various historical buildings along Wilshire Blvd. >> http://www.curatingthecity.org/map.jsp
WILSHIRE
BOULEVARD MILESTONES
By Jane Gilman, publisher of Larchmont
Chronicle
Some 10,000 years ago prehistoric mammoths, saber tooth
cats, dire wolves and camels roamed the land that would
become Los Angeles. Later the Yang-Na Indians settled
by the Los Angeles River and traveled a path to the
La Brea ("the tar") pits to gather material
for their baskets.
After the founding of Los Angeles in 1781, settlers
followed the Indian trail to the tar pits for material
for roofing. In 1792 the road was called Camino Viejo,
("the old road") and intersected many ranchos
including Rancho La Brea.
Thousands of gold seekers arrived in California in
the 1840s, and many of them came to Los Angeles with
their newfound wealth to develop real estate and open
businesses. Much of the land was still owned by early
families such as Pico, Dominguez and Rocha, but a drought
which began in 1864 and lasted two years ravaged the
ranchos and forced many landowners to sell their property
.
Boom, Bust in 1880s
The transatlantic railroads brought many more settlers
to Los Angeles in the 1870s. Train fares were so competitive
that the $100 fare from Kansas City to Los Angeles was
reduced to $75 and then to $45, beckoning Easterners
who came in droves. A land boom began, only to collapse
in 1888 because of zealous salesmen who promised innocent
buyers that their land would quadruple in value. Instead
the property in so-called booming suburbs went bust.
Lots were offered at $2.50 apiece to pay off back taxes.
Many of the new arrivals packed their belongings and
headed back East. Henry Gaylord Wilshire had arrived
with his family in Los Angeles in 1884. He predicted
that with the speed of transportation Southern California
would become the winter playground of the leisure class
of Americans.
His purchase of a 35-acre tract was officially recorded
as Lot 1, Block 25, of Hancock's Survey of Pueblo Lands
in 1865. (Major Henry Hancock, father of Hancock Park's
founder G. Alien Hancock, was the city's surveyor at
the time).
When Wilshire bought the property in 1895 for $52,000,
Westlake Park had been a city dump. In 1887 private
funds enabled the land to be converted into a park (and
renamed for World War II General Douglas MacArthur Jr.
in 1942). Gaylord Wilshire told the city that in order
for him to permit a street to bisect the property, the
boulevard must be 120 feet wide and must bear his name.
His street ran between Westlake Park and Lafayette Park.
Advent of the Automobile
In the early 1900s steam-driven motor cars started
sharing Wilshire Boulevard with horse-drawn carriages.
At the turn of the century Germain Pellissier paid $25
per acre to the Southern Pacific Railway for 160 acres
between what are now Normandie and Western avenues to
raise sheep and barley.
Reuben Schmidt purchased land east of Normandie for
his dairy farm. Further north the movie industry was
developing, and in 1910 Hollywood officially became
part of the city of Los Angeles. Some of its luminaries,
like Mary Pickford and Harold Lloyd, were purchasing
homes in the elegant suburbs of Windsor Square and Fremont
Place.
Wilshire Christian Church was the first church on Wilshire
Boulevard in 1911. The church received a donation of
property at Wilshire and Normandie from the Chapman
Brothers, owners of Chapman Market.
General Harrison Gray Otis, founder of the Los Angeles
Times, built a home next to Westlake Park as did Isaac
Van Nuys. Other prominent residents of Wilshire Boulevard
were Edwin Tobias Earl, inventor of the refrigerated
railroad car, and G. Alien Hancock, an oilman whose
real estate holdings later became Hancock Park.
1920s - Another Boom
It was in 1920 that the Western Avenue Businessmen's
Assoc. was started with Harold Henry as its secretary.
The Association later became the Wilshire Chamber of
Commerce.
When Charles Dunn founded the real estate firm in 1921
bearing his name, lots were selling for $1,500. Wilshire
Boulevard was mostly populated by homes then, with some
small office buildings and block after block of vacant
land. Everyone was buying--from secretaries to speculators.
The first of the area's distinguished high-rise apartment
buildings and hotels were erected along Wilshire Boulevard.
The l0-story Bryson Apartment Hotel (at Wilshire and
Rampart) dominated the landscape in 1913. It was later
owned by film actor Fred MacMurray. The lavish Ambassador
Hotel opened its doors on 23 acres in 1921 on the former
site of Reuben Schmidt's dairy farm.
The 14-story Gaylord Apartment Hotel was built the
same year by Gaylord Wilshire. The entire area near
the Ambassador Hotel became the site of New York-style
apartment buildings, and many film stars lived in these
elegant high rises such as the Asbury, the Langham,
the Fox Normandie, the Picadilly and the Windsor.
Joseph Schenck, president of United Artists, purchased
an apartment building at Berendo Ave. with his film
actress wife Norma Talmadge in 1922. He named the building
The Talmadge, and the couple lived on the 10th floor.
The Doheny family opened the Town House at Wilshire
and Commonwealth across from Lafayette Park (later purchased
by Hilton and then by Sheraton) as an apartment hotel
in 1924. That was the same year the first neon sign
in the country was turned on at the new Packard car
dealership that Earl C. Anthony had opened at Wilshire
and La Brea.
Soon more boulevard roof-top signs were blazing apartment
and hotel names in neon, and tourists from as far as
Riverside were driving to Los Angeles to see the array
of neon signage on Wilshire Boulevard. The Los Angeles
Elks Building opened across from MacArthur Park in 1925
in an 12-story building designed by architects Claude
Beelman and Aleck Curlett (the building is now the Park
Plaza Hotel).
Charlie Chaplin was using the Westlake Park lake for
many of his movie scenes. Gloria Swanson lived in an
apartment building she owned near the Ambassador Hotel.
Her husband Herbert Somborn opened the Brown Derby Restaurant,
a hat-shaped building at Wilshire and Alexandria in
1926, in an era when restaurants were shaped like igloos,
hot dogs and teepees. In 1927 Ebell of Los Angeles,
a women's organization, began construction of its Italian
Renaissance clubhouse at Wilshire and Lucerne.
Bullocks Opens in 1929
In 1929 Bullocks Wilshire, dubbed the "cathedral
of commerce," was built at Wilshire and Westmoreland
as the city's first branch department store in the suburbs.
Its Art Deco architectural style was modeled after the
designs which premiered at the Paris Exposition des
Arts Decoratifs et Moderne. That same year the Academy
Awards ceremony was moved from the Hollywood Roosevelt
to the Ambassador Hotel.
A section of Germain Pellessier's sheep farm became
the site of the Pellessier Building and Wiltern Theatre
which began construction at the corner of Wilshire and
Western in 1929. The theater, operated by Warners Bros.,
opened in 1931 with the premiere of the movie "Alexander
Hamilton."
The world's first drive-in market opened in 1929 when
Chapman Market drew motor cars to its drive-through
grocery store at Sixth St. and Alexandria. By the 1930s
the residential communities of Fremont Place, Windsor
Square and Mancock Park were attracting the city's leading
families such as the Jansses, Bannings, Rowans and the
Van Nuys (the Van Nuys had their home in Westlake Park
moved in three pieces to Windsor Square).
Survives the Depression
Wilshire Boulevard survived the Depression of the 1930s
as well as land speculators' exploitation and was fast
becoming the heart of Los Angeles, a symbol of the city's
exciting growth. Farmers Insurance decided Wilshire
Boulevard would be the ideal place for its headquarters,
and built a three-story building at Wilshire and Rimpau.
In 1948 Farmers added four more stories to its headquarters
and in 1967 doubled the size of its facility.
When I. Magnin's opened in 1939 at Wilshire and New
Hampshire it was the first retail store in the country
to be operated entirely by electricity and completely
air-conditioned. The store marked the consolidation
of three stores, formerly located in the Ambassador
Hotel, the Biltmore Hotel and in Hollywood. Department
stores were opening suburban branches as the Miracle
Mile area developed between La Brea and Fairfax avenues.
Wilshire Boulevard was the place to see and be seen-movie
stars motored down the avenue in their Packards, Lincolns
and Cords.
Height Limit Lifted in 1951
When the 13-story height limit on buildings was lifted
in 1951, golfers had to look elsewhere for driving range.
The property on the south side of Wilshire between Mariposa
and Normandie was converted to the site of the first
three 12-story Tishman Plaza buildings in 1952 (now
known as Central Plaza). Designed by Claude Beelman,
they were the first office buildings to be erected by
the prestigious Tishman firm in Los Angeles.
Insurance companies began locating their west coast
headquarters in Wilshire Center because of tax incentives
provided by the State. The drawing boards at the architectural
firm of Langdon and Wilson were responsible for such
projects as the U. S. Borax Building at Westmoreland,
the CNA Building (now the Superior Court building) and
Wilshire Plaza at Wilshire and Serrano.
1960s & 70s See Building Spurt
Some 22 high rise office buildings were erected on
Wilshire Boulevard from 1966 to 1976, to provide office
space for such companies as Getty Oil Co., Ahmanson
Financial Co., Beneficial Standard Life Insurance, Wausau
and Equitable Life Insurance. Dedication of the Liberty
Bell, an exact replica of the original bell in Philadelphia,
was held at Beneficial Standard Life Insurance Co.'s
lobby at the firm's Wilshire and Oxford headquarters
in 1968.
The same year Bobby Kennedy, former U.S. Attorney General
and Senator, was shot and killed at the Ambassador Hotel
following a party which celebrated his victory in the
California primary election for President.
The Chapman Park Hotel, built in 1936, was torn down
to make way for the 34-story Equitable Plaza office
building erected in 1969. Cardinal James Mclnryre spoke
at the dedication of St. Basil's Church, Kingsley and
Wilshire, in 1969. By 1970 firms such as CNA, Pacific
Indemnity and Pierce National Life were starting construction
of their own high rise buildings. Southwestern University
School of Law moved from its downtown location of 50
years to a four-story campus just south of Wilshire
Boulevard on Westmoreland in 1973.
After a seven-year study by a community advisory group
and the City Planning Dept., the Wilshire Plan was submitted
to the Planning Committee of City Council. The plan
outlined zoning and development recommendations for
the Wilshire area between La Cienega and Hoover.
The influx of Korean immigrants resulted in many new
agencies such as the Korean Youth and Community Center
being established in 1974 to ease the transition for
an estimate70,000 newcomers from Korea to Wilshire Center.
1980s - Start of Subway
By 1981 Wilshire residents and business owners were
contacting their elected officials in Washington, D.C.
to urge financing of the Wilshire subway. Wilshire Boulevard
was expected to be the site of six of the 16 stations
in the system. They were to be Alvarado, Vermont, Normandie,
Western, La Brea and Fairfax. Today, the MTA Red Line
does not include La Brea and Fairfax.
Developer Wayne Ratkovich purchased the historic 12-story
Pellissier Building and its Wiltern Theater, saving
it from the wrecker's ball. The restored building opened
again to the public with a performance of the Alvin
Alley American Dance Theater in 1985. Building restoration
was also underway in the 1980s at Chapman Park Studio
and Market, the Sterling Bank building at Wilshire and
Berendo, the Park Plaza Hotel and the Granada Building,
a combination apartment and office complex.
In 1995 the Wilshire Chamber of Commerce closed off
Wilshire Boulevard for first time between Western and
Hobart on a Saturday to celebrate the Wilshire Boulevard
Centennial. This celebration marked the 100 year anniversary
of the founding of Wilshire Boulevard when Gaylord Wilshire
purchased 35 acres between MacArthur Park and Lafayetta
Park, giving his name to the thoroughfare. |